Cruzin Coolers are made to the highest possible standards, with improvements everyday to make Cruzin Cooler products the best units possible. Although we spend hundreds if not thousands of hours developing and refining our products, they are mechanical devices and failures occur. Knowing this we strive to help fix or remedy any failures as quickly and easily as possible so you can get your cooler back on the road ASAP.
Many of the issues with the coolers can be easily fixed or repaired by the customer. Where this is not feasible you may return your cooler to our Service Center or the closest Service Center to your area, National Service Centers. If you do not see a service center in your area you can always send it to our main Service Center in Houston, Texas.
As an overview, the Cruzin Coolers have 2 basic circuits, the power circuit and the control circuit. The power circuit consists of the battery, circuit breaker and motor. The control circuit consists of the throttle, ECM (computer), on/off switch and brake switch.
So basically these are the possible components that could fail: Motor, battery(s), on/off switch, brake switch, circuit breaker, throttle, controller (ECM).
There are four major components of the electrical system, controller, throttle assembly on the handle bars, batteries and motor. Here is a quick way to find the problem. There is also a wiring diagram below and also see wiring to help you with the wiring connections. Below is a step by step checklist for the above problem.
Step 1. Be sure the charger is NOT PLUGGED into the unit. It will not run.
Step 2. Be sure that the switch in the back is on and illuminated.
Step 3. Be sure that the brake lever is not depressed. The brake lever has a switch that when engaged shuts power off power to the motor.
Step 4. Be sure that the red and green light on the throttle is illuminated
Step 5. Check to be sure all of the wires are connected in the motor compartment especially that all plugs are tightly connected. Give a gentle tug on individual wires going into each plug.
Step 6. Prop the drive wheel (right-rear wheel) off the ground so clears the surface. This is to prevent it from moving should power be restored. Turn the unit on and with lid open engage the throttle. With the throttle engaged, move the wires around and squeeze the connections to see if the unit suddenly starts. Push the plugs on the controller and push the individual wires into their plugs on the controller. If power is restored this is an indication of a loose connection in the wiring somewhere within the system.
Step 7. You can unplug (the brake switch is normally open) the red and black wires which come from the brake handle to the rear motor area. It is the cable that comes in from the side vent that has 2 wires in it. The cable with 4 wires is the one for the throttle. Turn the throttle, If the unit goes you have a bad brake switch. If the unit do not go, to Step 8.
Step 8. You will need a volt meter for the following tests. Measure the voltage at the controller (ECM), you should have 24V for 250-500 watts, 36V for 750’s and 48V on 1000’s at the power plug (Battery leads/plug) into the ECM. If you don’t have the corresponding voltage, go to battery circuit test.
Step 9. While engaging throttle wide open, check the output voltage to the motor to see if you get a reading of the proper voltage. If you do get the correct voltage for your motor, your motor is bad and needs to be replaced.
Step 10. To check the throttle, you can measure the voltage of the wires. Be cautious while checking these wires. If you short any of these wires, you may burn up the ECM and Throttle. Using the voltmeter, the wires read as follows:
Red wire reading to Black wire, (-+5.2V)
Black wire reading to Yellow wire, (24-48V+)* depending on system voltage (24,36 or 48V). This is for the light indicator on the handlebars to show system voltage.
Green wire reading to Red wire, (+-5.2V). This is the signal from the throttle.
Another check of the throttle is to unplug the throttle from the controller (ECM). Jump the red to green on the ECM plug for the throttle. If unit runs you have a bad throttle, if not you have a bad controller (ECM).
Step 11. Unplug your charger port from the ECM, if it is shorted, it will not let the unit run. It is the wire from the back face plate where the charger plugs in.
Step 12. If everything is illuminated you may still have a loose terminal connector at the rest button (Circuit Breaker). Sometimes the connector will break inside of the plastic shrink wrap so it appears it is still connected, however it has enough conductivity to turn on the lights but you will not get any throttle response. You may need to cut the shrink wrap off of the wires to see if the connector is broken. These are the two wire connectors that plug onto the circuit breaker. If you have a volt meter you can check the voltage at the ECM for proper voltage.
Step 13. If you don’t have a volt meter or want to see if motor whindings are okay you can use a simple method. You can make a direct feed from the battery wires straight to the motor to see if the motor runs (Positive to positive, negative to negative. Be sure that the drive wheel is off the ground before doing this
Step 14. If you made it here you probably have a bad controller (ECM) or a bad throttle on the handle bars. If you are not knowledgeable with wiring, a technician can help you figure out which component is bad. For the technical people go to technical for wiring help.
Step 15. To get a warranty replacement part you need to either order a part online and return bad part with an RMA for refund or send in the bad part for a replacement. Click here for part
This is a simple problem normally caused from a disconnected wire from the batteries. Follow the steps below.
Step 1. Be sure that the switch in the back is on.
Step 2. Make sure that the circuit breaker located on the exterior back electrical plate is not tripped (sticking out).
Step 3. Make sure the fuse located (on older models, 50 series) on power supply in the wiring harness is not burned out.
Step 4. Check to be sure all of the wires are connected in the motor compartment especially that all plugs are tightly connected.
Step 5. Make sure the battery connections are tight.
Step 6. If none of the lights still come you will need a voltmeter to continue testing.
Step 7. Check for (24V 250-500watt,36V 750watt, 48V-1000watt) depending on your model, where the power plugs into the ECM. If you do not have the proper power trace back to find bad connection.
Step 8. If you are electrically inclined you can check to see if your on off switch is bad. This will cause the problem above. You can jump out the two power pins where the on off switch plugs into the ECM and see if the throttle lights up. If so you have a bad on off switch.
This is a normally a sign of bad batteries or bad connection. Batteries start dying from the first day you use them and are normally good for 300 cycles, or complete charge and discharges. Follow the steps below.
Step 1. Be sure that the the voltage from the batteries at the ECM is (24V for 250-500watt,36V for 750watt, 48V-for 1000watt). If not charge your battery. If not plug in your charger and make sure your charger is putting out at least 2 volts more power than your system is rated. When you plug the charger into your cooler you should have a voltage increase at the ECM. If the voltage from the charger is not 1-2V or more above the rated voltage of your unit replace the charger
Step 2. Even if your batteries have 12V or more each that does not mean they are good. They may have the proper voltage but no power or amps behind the voltage, which is typical on bad batteries.
Step 3. If you think your batteries are bad take them out and have them checked at a battery store or local auto parts store. Remember for replacement batteries we supply the ones made for deep cycling and high amp ratings. For replacement batteries go to parts.
This is either a bad ECM or a bad throttle. Follow the steps below.
Step 1. Prop the drive wheel so that it clears the ground surface.
Step 2. Unplug the throttle from the ECM, then turn the switch on. If unit does not run, probably a bad throttle. You can check the voltages as shown above for the throttle to see if you have proper voltage to the throttle.
Step 3. Unplug everything from the ECM except the battery and motor. If the unit runs, you have a bad ECM.
Step 4. If it does not run, plug in the on/off switch and charger port. If it does not run, you probably have a bad throttle.
This is a normally a sign that the batteries are not making a connection and problem is in the power circuit. Follow the steps below.
Step 1. Be sure that the the voltage from the batteries at the ECM is (24V 250-500watt,36V 750watt, 48V-1000watt). If low charge your battery. If not plug in your charger and make sure your charger is putting out at least 2 volts more power than your system is rated. When you plug the charger into your cooler you should have a voltage increase at the ECM battery plug. If the voltage from the charger is not 1-2V or more above the rated voltage of your unit replace the charger
Step 2. Your problem is that you have a bad connection between the battery and ECM. Check the circuit breaker connections first and then battery connections. Just because it appears that the wires are okay at the circuit breaker a lot of times the wire will break inside of the plastic shrink wrap. Check this closely as it has a high probability. Your problem is in this circuit.
This is one of the top questions we receive from our customers and fans. Below are some characteristics to look at on your unit to help you figure out which series you are have:
50 Series: (Produced from 2005-2007) Has a large aluminum plate at the rear of the cooler that holds the charging port, reset button and on/off switch. It will also have a SQUARE access door/drink holder on the lid.
51 Series: (Produced from 2007-2014) Has a narrow chrome plated RECTANGULAR plate at the rear of the cooler that holds the charging port, reset button and on/off switch. It will also have a SQUARE access door/drink holder on the lid.
52 Series: (Produced from 2014-2017) Has a narrow chrome plated RECTANGULAR plate at the rear of the cooler that holds the charging port, reset button and on/off switch. It will also have a RECTANGLE access door/drink holder on the lid.
52.2 Series: (Produced from 2017-2018) Has a narrow chrome plated RECTANGULAR plate at the rear of the cooler that holds the charging port, USB port and on/off switch (No reset button). It will also have a RECTANGLE access door/drink holder on the lid. OR: Has a narrow chrome plated RECTANGULAR plate at the rear of the cooler that holds the charging port and on/off switch (No reset button). It will also have a RECTANGLE access door/drink holder on the lid and feature a phone holder for the handle bars.
What do I do if I need parts?
This is one of our biggest target areas for complete customer satisfaction. We will stock everything you could ever need for your cooler, all the time. To get a warranty replacement part you need to either order a part online and return bad part with RMA for refund or send in the bad part for a free replacement.
For more wiring diagrams, click here.