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FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS
Below are the most frequently asked questions about
service for Cruzin Coolers. You may click on any of the index links
below to get you to the right service area.
General Service
Questions
Gas Powered Problems
Electrical Powered Problems
Coolagon problems
Warranty Parts
Is my
unit a 50 series (old) or 51 series (new)?
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GENERAL
SERVICE QUESTIONS |
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Cruzin Coolers are made to the highest possible
standards, with improvements everyday to make Cruzin Cooler products the
best units possible. Although we spend hundreds if not thousands of
hours developing and refining our products, they are mechanical devices
and failures occur. Knowing this we strive to help fix or remedy any
failures as quickly and easily as possible so you can get your cooler
back on the road ASAP.
Many of the issues with the coolers can be easily
fixed or repaired by the customer. Where this is not feasible you may
return your cooler to our Service Center or the closest Service Center
to your area,
National Service Centers.
If you do not see a service center in your area you can always send it to our main
Service Center in Houston, Texas.
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What do I do if I wrecked my cooler and it needs
service? Sometimes things happen and
your Cruzin Cooler gets damaged. Most repairs can be made easily and
quickly simply by ordering the parts you need from our website. If however
you damage your cooler beyond normal repair you can ship it to our
service center. We will call or email you a quote to repair your cooler.
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My Cooler is under warranty and there is a
problem with it? Just email
service@cruzincooler.com
and our staff will be happy to help you get your cooler back on the
road as quickly as possible.
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GAS POWERED COOLER PROBLEMS |
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I have trouble starting the gas unit, What do I do?
We keep a small can of starting either handy to make cold
starting easier. All 2 cycle motors may take a few pulls to get
going, but with all of our test samples we have always got our coolers
started. To start your cooler use the following procedure:
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a. Pump
the primer bulb under the carburetor. |
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b. Move the choke leave
up to choke the carburetor. |
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c. Turn the throttle all
the way to maximum and pull start cord. |
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d. If it does not start
after a few pulls you can spray a little either close to the
air cleaner. |
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For more
click here.
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ELECTRIC
POWERED COOLER PROBLEMS |
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As an overview, the Cruzin Coolers have 2 basic
circuits, the power circuit and the control circuit.
The power circuit consists of the battery,
circuit breaker and motor.
The control circuit consists of the throttle,
ECM (computer), on/off switch and brake switch.
So basically these are the possible components that could fail:
Motor, battery(s), on/off switch, brake switch, circuit breaker,
throttle, controller (ECM). |
1. The red light on the switch is on and the
throttle on the handlebar has a green and red and it will not go at
all?
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There are four major components of the electrical system, controller,
throttle assembly on the handle bars, batteries and motor.
Here is a quick way to find the problem. There is also a wiring
diagram below and also see
wiring to help you with the wiring connections.
Below is a step by step checklist for the above problem. |
| Step 1. BE SURE CHARGER
IS NOT PLUGGED INTO COOLER, IT WILL NOT RUN! |
| Step 2. Be sure that the
switch in the back is on and illuminated. |
| Step 3. Be sure that the
brake lever is not depressed, this cuts off power to the motor. |
| Step 4. Be sure that the
red light is on and the green light on the handlebar throttle is
illuminated |
| Step 5. Check to be sure
all of the wires are connected in the motor compartment
especially that all plugs are tightly connected. |
| Step 6. Raise the drive
wheel off the ground so it will not take off if power is
restored. Turn unit on and with lid open turn throttle wide open
and hold it wide open. Now move the wires and squeeze the
connections to see if the unit suddenly starts. Push the plugs
on the controller and push the individual wires into their plugs
on the controller. Sometimes this may locate a loose connection. |
| Step 7. You can unplug
(the brake switch is normally open)
the red and black wires which come from the brake handle to the rear
motor area. It is the wire that comes in from the side vent
that has 2 wires in it, not the one with 4. Turn the throttle, If the unit goes you have a bad brake switch. If not
go to Step 8. |
| Step 8. You will
need a volt meter for the following tests. They are cheap and
available at Radio Shack and other department stores. Measure
the voltage at the controller (ECM), you should have 24V for
250-500 watts, 36V for 750's and 48V on 1000's at the power plug
into the ECM. If you don't go to battery circuit test. |
| Step 9. While holding
throttle wide open check the output voltage to the motor and see
if you get a reading of the proper voltage. If yes, replace your
motor. |
| Step 10. To
check throttle you can measure the voltage of the wires. If you
short any of these wires you may burn up the ECM and throttle.
The wires read as follows, red-+5.2V reading to black,
black-system ground, yellow, 24-48V+ depending on
system voltage (24,36,48V). This is for the light indicator on
the handlebars to show system voltage. The green wire is the
+0-5.2V signal from the red wire. Therefore to check if throttle
is bad unplug throttle and jump red to green. If unit runs you
have a bad throttle, if not you have a bad controller (ECM). |
| Step 11. You can
unplug your charger port from the ECM, if shorted will not let
the unit run. It is the wire from the back control panel where
the charger plugs in. |
| Step 12. If everything is lit
you may still have a loose terminal connector at the rear
breaker. Sometimes the connector will break inside of the
plastic shrink wrap so it appears it is still connected, however
it has enough conductivity to turn on the lights but you will
not get any throttle response. You may need to cut the shrink
wrap off of the wires to see if the connector is broken. These
are the two wire connectors that plug onto the breaker. If you
have a volt meter you can check the voltage at the ECM for
proper voltage. |
| Step 14. If you don't have a
volt meter or want to see if motor windings are okay you can us
a simple method. You jump the battery wires straight to
the motor to see if the motor runs, of course a volt meter is
the best way to check. and you need to be sure that the drive
wheel is off the ground. If you have long enough wires you can
drive it by connecting the jumper wires outside of the cooler
and drive it. Remember that this is full throttle and depending
on your power level of your cooler you need to be cautious if
you decide to drive it this way. If the motor runs fine you need
to look at the control parts. |
| Step 15. If you made it
here you probably have a
bad controller (ECM) or a bad throttle on the handle bars.
If you are knowledgeable with wiring a technician can help
you figure out which component is bad. For the technical people
go to
technical for
wiring help. |
| Step 12. To get a warranty
replacement part you need to either order a part online and
return bad part with RMA for refund or send in the bad part for
a replacement. Click here for
parts |
2. The red
on/off switch light is not
illuminated and the handlebar lights are not on.
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This is a simple problem normally caused from a disconnected wire from
the batteries.
Follow the steps below. |
| Step 1. Be sure that the
switch in the back is on. |
| Step 2. Make sure that
the circuit breaker located on the exterior back electrical
plate is not tripped (sticking out). |
| Step 3. Make sure the
fuse located (on older models, 50 series) on power supply in the wiring harness is not burned out. |
| Step 4. Check to be sure
all of the wires are connected in the motor compartment
especially that all plugs are tightly connected. |
| Step 5. Make sure the
battery connections are tight,. |
| Step 6. If none of the
lights still come you will need a voltmeter to continue testing. |
| Step 7. Check for (24V
250-500watt,36V 750watt, 48V-1000watt) depending on your model,
where the power plugs into the ECM. If you do not have the
proper power trace back to find bad connection. |
| Step 8. If you are
electrically inclined you can check to see if your on off switch
is bad. This will cause the problem above. You can jump out the
two power pins where the on off switch plugs into the ECM and
see if the throttle lights up. If so you have a bad on off
switch. |
3. The yellow
light comes on the handlebars shortly after I charge it and it barely
runs, or it is does not go very far after being charged.
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This is a normally a sign of bad batteries or bad connection. Batteries start dying from
the first day you use them and are normally good for 300 cycles,
or complete charge and discharges.
Follow the steps below. |
| Step 1. Be sure that the
the voltage from the batteries at the ECM is (24V
for 250-500watt,36V for 750watt, 48V-for 1000watt). If not charge your
battery. If not plug in your charger and make sure your charger
is putting out at least 2 volts more power than your system is
rated. When you plug the charger into your cooler you should
have a voltage increase at the ECM. If the voltage from the
charger is not 1-2V or more above the rated voltage of your unit
replace the charger |
| Step 2. Even if your
batteries have 12V or more each that does not mean they are
good. They may have the proper voltage but no power or amps behind the
voltage, which is typical on bad batteries. |
| Step 3. If you think your
batteries are bad take them out and have them checked at a
battery store or local auto parts store. Remember for
replacement batteries we supply the ones made for deep cycling
and high amp ratings. For replacement batteries go to.parts.
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4.
My cooler runs without anything on or not turning
throttle.
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This is either a bad ECM or a bad throttle.
Follow the steps below. |
| Step 1. Unplug the
throttle and turn switch on, if unit does not run, probably a
bad throttle. You can check the voltages as shown above for the
throttle to see if you have proper voltage to the throttle. |
| Step 2. Unplug
everything except the battery and motor. If unit runs you have a
bad ECM. |
| Step 3. If it does not
run plug in the on/off switch and charger port. If it does not
run you probably have a bad throttle. |
5. The on/off light dims
slowly or goes off when I unplug the charger.
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This is a normally a sign that the batteries are not making a
connection and problem is in the power circuit
Follow the steps below. |
| Step 1. Be sure that the
the voltage from the batteries at the ECM is (24V
250-500watt,36V 750watt, 48V-1000watt). If low charge your
battery. If not plug in your charger and make sure your charger
is putting out at least 2 volts more power than your system is
rated. When you plug the charger into your cooler you should
have a voltage increase at the ECM battery plug. If the voltage from the
charger is not 1-2V or more above the rated voltage of your unit
replace the charger |
| Step 2. Your problem is that
you have a bad connection between the battery and ECM. Check the
circuit breaker connections first and then battery connections.
Just because it appears that the wires are okay at the circuit
breaker a lot of times the wire will break inside of the plastic
shrink wrap. Check this closely as it has a high probability.
Your problem is in this circuit. |
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COOLAGON
PROBLEMS |
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You should not have any problems with a Coolagon, if so contact service
at
service@cruzincooler.com.
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WARRANTY PARTS |
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What do I do if I need parts?
This
is one of our biggest target areas for complete customer
satisfaction and the biggest complaint from people who buy any old
scooter from overseas. We will stock everything you could ever need
for your cooler, all the time. To get a
warranty replacement part you need to either order a part online and
return bad part with RMA for refund or send in the bad part for a free
replacement. |
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